Archive for category Treks
Everest Base Camp – Training
Working out how best to train and prepare for the rigours of spending 2 weeks trekking in Nepal, at times over 5,000m is hard to work out for most who attempt the trek. Being one of the truly classic routes to trek in the world, a lot of people get their first taste of altitude walking to Everest Base Camp and go to Nepal not quite sure what to expect from it all.
I’d heard a lot about what to expect and some very different thoughts on training. I wasn’t sure if I’d done enough, so even though I know this isn’t going to completely clear doubts from someone who’s never attempted similar, I hope it at least give pointers as to what helped in the build up.
The majority of my training was quite simple really. I ran a couple of times per week during the 6months I had prior to the trip and spent weekends away walking up anything high I could think of and realistically get to.
Advice on training as an “Executive Summary”
(i.e. if you’ve seen the size of the article and don’t fancy reading it all)
- If you’re worried about your fitness, then do more. Don’t find out in the Himalaya that you can’t walk uphill for hours and hours each day.
- Don’t leave it until the last minute, I’d suggest building up slowly over 6 months.
- Mix your exercise/training so you don’t get bored.
- Walk in the mountains as much as is possible, with as many consecutive days as you can manage.
- Find a regular walking partner(s) for the days out to make it more fun.
- If you pick up a tweak/slight injury then stop and let it heal.
- Every time you’re exercising and feel like stopping for a breather, go a little further just to break down those mental barriers.
- Learn to walk uphill slowly as you’ll get AMS if you run up the hills in Nepal. Don’t get cocky through being over fit and ruin the trip. Pace is important!
- Learn to hydrate whilst exercising. I got used to carrying a couple of litres of water whilst walking and drinking it all and also running with a drink.
- Walk after little/no sleep (when it’s safe to do so!) to get used to switching off and ploughing through the miles.
- For all the physical training you do, remember a lot of what you encounter will push you mentally as well, be prepared to cope with discomfort but know when enough is enough.
- Enjoy yourself and remember why you’re doing it all… to go to one of the most incredible places on earth!
The Longer Notes
As a guide I left for Nepal on the 14th November, and began the trek on the 16th, making Everest Base Camp on the 23rd.
Running
When I booked the trip, I’d just started running, in order to ready myself for my first ever road race, the BUPA London 10k in May 2008, which I completed in 56mins 42secs.
Throughout the year I then ran the Sherwood Pines 10k, Lichfield 10k, Walsall 10k, Mallory Park 5k, Shugborough Hall 15k.
Finally on October 26th, just weeks before the trip I built up to running what turned out to be a very undulating Birmingham Half Marathon in 2hrs 6mins.
Walking
Whilst the running helped build overall fitness, actually getting up into the hills and walking was by far the best form of training for the trip, in particular when we strung a couple of days together with little sleep between. Looking back it was also experience in a variety of different environment and conditions that really helped test out kit and prepare us mentally for what was in store.
August 2nd – Peak District
Our first proper training walk was close by in the Peak District, in early August 2008 (so only 3 abd a half months before we left for Nepal). We ascended Mam Tor (517m) and then completing a ridge walk around Castleton. Putting extra weight on our back (6litres of water which put packs up to just over 8kg) was perhaps foolish, but sitting on top of Mam Tor we both realised how out of shape for walking up hills we were. We walked around 12miles that day and felt it the next.
Pushing yourself too far and scaring yourself with the idea of failure through lack of fitness is perhaps a good idea, as long as there’s time left to rectify that!
August 10th – Rutland Water
To get miles under our belts we then walked the main 17mile circuit of Rutland Water in hot weather. Whilst lacking the ups and downs we’d really benefit from, the walk was good for trying out some new kit and getting a long walk done together.
August 23rd/24th – Snowdonia
A real watershed for us was getting to Snowdonia and scaring ourselves to death in bad weather on Tryfan and then Crib Goch. We’d naturally picked the routes that were listed as the hardest in the guide books to push ourselves but got more than we bargained for. Tryfan started well but veering away from the main scramble we soon were out of our depth on the terrain and the weather closed in. After getting to the top we made a hasty descent and had a long talk about being more prepared/responsible about how we tackled mountains in the future. This was as we sat in the car, watching our tent get blown apart by strong wind… we slept in the car. And then the next day had it pulled out of the field it’d sank in.
After a quick breakfast we were at Pen y Pass to have a crack at the Snowdon Horseshoe, which despite the day before we felt confident about. Unfortunately weather again turned as we neared the top of Crib Goch and with wind pinning us to the rock at the start of the main ridge, we descended the shorter North Ridge which was a lot less windy, back into the Llanberis Valley. We walked to the car without much said and abandoned our plans for the next day. Beaten by Wales.
We saw the potential for mountains to turn lethal quickly and realised some of our kit was nowhere near good enough for bad weather. It was a wake up call beyond for the mental side required to be up high when invariably the conditions are far from perfect.
September 13th/14th – Lake District
With a selection of new kit to hand (and on foot) and new found respect for the mountains, we went to the Lake District for the weekend.
Our first day was spent doing a a long walk up Helvellyn via a very cloudy and quite wet Striding Edge, which we felt really comfortable on with the bad experience on a far more exposed Crib Goch still fresh in our minds. Then over Helvellyn Lower Man, White Side, Raise and Stybarrow Dodd before descent toward Glenridding. Shattered from a long day we went back to Kendall to the youth hostel where we were staying… and then out for the night around bars/clubs.
Next day after a short sleep and hung over, we were on our way to Wasdale, from where we walked to the top of Scafell Pike. The route we took was fairly direct, lacking much excitement and helped mentally prepare us for ascent when we felt like doing nothing other than sleeping.
Probably the best weekend of walking we did prior to the trip, as it combined a long walk with plenty of ascent on the first day, a poor night’s sleep (self inflicted but a lot of fun) and then another long day trudging up hill.
September 20th – Highlands
Then the next weekend we flew to Edinburgh, and made our way early on Saturday to Glencoe where we grabbed a few bits and then started up Ben Nevis. We made our ascent in thick cloud that from time to time broke. After a really long trudge we made it to a particularly cold and foggy summit. We had some food/water, took photos and then starting to really feel just how cold it was, hastily made our way down.
Wearing nearly all the layers we’d presumed we’d need for Nepal, yet still feeling cold was handy. Getting out in less the ideal conditions really help test our kit and the way in which we used it. Combined with a long walk up, it was again a really useful weekend.
October 4th – Snowdonia
Not wanting to be beaten by Snowdon, having reached the top of Scafell Pike and Ben Nevis, and despite warnings of bad weather we went back to Snowdonia. With bad weather already in the valley as we got near we decided to stick to the Miners Track but soon people we passed told us of lots of water on the path whilst others told us the path had disappeared. We kept going with wind gusting over 60mph and sideways rain to about the point where the Miners and Pyg tracks meet before slow progress and light fading forced us to call it a day.
Despite not making the top as had been the goal, we were pleased by how much we’d learnt since then, we never felt uncomfortable and turned back at the right time. Our kit for the most part also withstood what was really awful weather in Wales.
Everest Base Camp Kit List
Kit is always important on a trip, not just to have the right level of equipment and clothing but also for you to be comfortable in it. So I’ve listed everything (well everything I remember) I took to Nepal for the trek to EBC. Packing for a decent length trip the first few times is tough, you’ll over pack and take things you come back having not used. You’ll probably also be horrified by how much your kit weighs when it’s finally packed. Hopefully the list below will help.
Before moving onto the list, there’s a couple of important considerations to remember:
- Time of year: I went in the middle of November, which is considered the main trekking season. Conditions do change in the valley depending on whether you’re there chasing the snow up or it’s chasing you back down. We didn’t walk on any snow at all on our way.
- Porterage: The main pack was carried by porters all the way up the trail so we only needed to carry a daypack.
- Weight limit: I worked toward a weight limit of 15kg for my main pack.
- Accommodation: We stayed in the tea houses all the way up. Had we stayed in tents then obviously changes to items related to sleeping would’ve been different.
So the kit I took, from the top…
Head
- Thermal Hat – Mountain Equipment thermal beanie style hat
I prefer not wearing a hat most of the time but when it got cold this was fantastic to have. Thermal liner inside is definite plus and helps keep your head nice and toasty when needed. - Neck Gaiter – Berghaus thermal style
Gave this a go after finding a balaclava uncomfortable. Really like the flexibility of the hat/gaiter combo. This works a charm and can be adjusted to cover more of your head in case it’s particularly cold or not wearing a hat (it can also be made into a hat). For Nepal it was handy on the last few days but given they’re pretty cheap, are worth it alone for UK winter walking. - Sun Hat – I didn’t take one…
Doh! Forgot to take one and paid for it on the acclimatisation day up above Namche (we’d also not taken enough water to compound it) and got pretty bad sunstroke, not ideal when you’re trying to stay 100%. So a decent hat to cover your head, if possible something light to cover the back of your neck is a necessity.
Body
- Long sleeve baselayers – Helly Hansen, 1x Polypropylenee, 1x Merino
For their weight and layering potential (if it comes to it I can put both on at once) they’re indispensable. Beware that the active baselayers usually don’t shield you completely from the sun, put sun tan on under, or else you’ll burn. - T-Shirts – 2 x Berghaus lightweight wicking
- Lightweight (100/200) Fleeces – 1xBerghaus (100 weight), 1xMountain Equipment (200 weight)
Actually didn’t need to wear them out walking but they were great in the evening. - Down Jacket – Mountain Equipment Vega Jacket
Lightweight down jacket with decent loft worked a charm. I used it from around 4000m up at night in the teahouses and then on the final day going up in the morning. - Waterproof Jacket – Mountain Equipment Kongur Jacket
I’ll say it again, I love this jacket. As the final part of layering it’s fantastic and helps me to stay almost always at the perfect temperature. You’d be fine with a lighter alternative but a good waterproof jacket will be flexible for other trips/walks, I definitely believe this one is good value given the use I’ve had out of it.
Hands
- Glove liners
- Warm gloves – Mountain Equipment Guide Gloves
Used only toward the top but they worked perfectly, and would have been fine without the liners.
Legs
- Boxers – 4x Polypropylenee (2 HH and 2 LoweAlpine)
So much better/more comfortable than wearing cotton. Perhaps another pair or two would’ve been nice, but I coped.
- HH Merino Baselayer
Used these on the final day over 5000m and found them okay but overkill really. In the morning I was glad of them but should have taken them off when I had the chance. Well worth taking in case the weather turned though. - Haglofs Thin trouser/shorts
My lightweight trousers for the trip doubled as shorts due to handy zips. The material was some special “clima-cool” that definitely made a difference on the lower sections of the trail. Shorts were also handy to have when it was warm under 3500m. - Berghaus Standard Walking Trousers
The main walking trouser I wore on the trip. Strong but lightweight material trouser with useful side vents high up on the outside leg for when it gets warm. Ideal. - Berghaus Deluge Over-Trousers
Waterproof over-trousers, used more than anything for extra warmth when protecting against strong winds on the final few days. We only had a bit of rain on the way down that didn’t merit them but still given weight/size and use as a shield from the wind/rain they’re essential.
Feet
- Scarpa Mantas (older style B2 rated)
I used these are my main pair of walking boots on the trip. Given the state of the trail and conditions they were overkill. Having ankle support was good at times but a much lighter weight boot would’ve been fine. Earlier in the year chasing the snow line they’d be much more useful. Still the most important thing was that despite being a too warm most of the time, they were comfortable as I’d walked in them a lot before Nepal. No blisters or other problems with my feet on the whole trek, so job done. - Merrels
No idea what model they are but they’re the standard lightweight summer trekking shoes you’d find in most outdoors shops. Wore them most at night but realistically would’ve been fine up until pretty high on the route given how warm it was. - North Face Down Slippers
Nice enough and keep your feet warm, but I wore them 2-3 times at most. A luxury, didn’t need them and weren’t practical in teahouses, too slippy.
Day pack
Berghaus Freeflow 20l
I’m a big believer in carrying only what is essential so was fine with 20l. My friend took a smaller pack and was also fine. Other members of the group opted for much larger packs… and managed to fill them with kit that they didn’t need. We were perhaps lucky with the weather so I’d probably advise 25/30l but I’d stick closely to what you’re comfortable with as long as it’s not wildly out from that. Somewhere on the outside of your pack to stow a water bottle is really handy.
Main pack
Berghaus Mule 80l
A hold all was the main pack style of choice. It makes getting to kit easy given the wide opening and was a lot easier for the porters to carry with the less rigid design. Not having lots of strapping/support also cuts on the weight of the pack so you can pack the same… but lighter.
Equipment
- Head Torch – Petzl Zipka
Definitely take a head torch. Any should do you fine, but do try it out before going. Saw people unwrapping them on the trip and not knowing how they worked and struggling in the dark. - Knife – Leatherman Knife
My mate I travelled with assured me a knife was essential. I used it once to prize apart chocolate digestive biscuits. A decent knife is always handy so take one and perhaps be happy if you use yours in a similar way. - Water Bottles/Bladder – 3ltr Platypus and 2x 1ltr Nalgene Bottles
Platypus first. Not ideal in my opinion… it’s great in the UK on day walks, in Nepal I found that it took on the taste of Iodine despite using neutralising tablets, was harder to keep check of how much water I was drinking and finally the pipe froze despite having fitted insulation. My advice, go with the Nalgene bottles. Why 2? Use one for your water, there’s plenty of places to fill up on the trail and mark the 2nd one as for in the night if you don’t want to get out of your sleeping bag to go toilet. Just make it obvious which is which! - Water Purification – Iodine drops/Neutralising tablets
You can buy bottled water but most people stuck to the Iodine route. Your stomach will probably hate you and show its displeasure on this route but it’s part of the trip, no? Just make sure you’ve got enough so that you’re not rationing Iodine and not drinking enough. - Waterproof Stuff Sacks
It was dry so the waterproof side wasn’t needed but it’s well worth having anyway. Fairly standard to pack using these. Knowing how best to pack with them, so that you don’t empty them each and every day to get clothes/kit, is the hard bit! - Medical Kit
Key parts to the kit… blister plasters, wet wipes, pain killers and well I took some Diamox in case. I got a bad head at Orsho, took some Nurofen and felt fine, then woke up that night in Dingboche feeling awful. In the morning half a Diamox and I was perfect again. At base camp before going up Kala Patthar I had to take another half tablet which made me again feel a lot better. Definitely take pain killers and talk to your doctor about Diamox, there’s so much conflicting advice/opinions about it that I’m going to put together an article on it. For now, know I took some with me and it worked fine. - Hand sanitizer
You’ll definitely want some of this. It seemed that it was more stomach complaints that hit our group and not the altitude. Trying to adapt to radically different environment, food, altitude is bad enough so try to introduce some hygiene by keeping your hands clean. - Reading Material – “The Climb” – Boukreev
Not that you’ll finish it, but good to take a book along to pass some time. I like to take something related and there’s plenty of material on the regio!
Casual clothes
Interesting one this, I took some clothes with me to wear in the evenings to get out of my walking kit and keep it as fresh as possible (actually to not smell so much at night). Couple of t-shirts made a difference, as did some warm jogging bottoms. But beyond that the walking kit got used in conjunction. So forget hoodies/jumpers, your fleece/down jacket are perfect for this.
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And that’s about it, any questions about kit you’re thinking about taking then feel free to ask and I’ll try to help.
Cheers, Ian
Everest Base Camp – Lots of articles to come!
It seems a common thing with people I meet who walk/climb to either have done the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal, or want to do in the future and have lots of questions about what’s involved, the training needed, what the altitude is like etc etc. So I thought I’d write a series of articles to cover…
- The training I put in prior to Everest Base Camp and the sort of fitness I began the trip with.
- My Everest Base Camp kit list for the trek, what worked well and what didn’t. What else needed organising/sorting.
- What was hard and what wasn’t so bad.
- What I’d probably do differently if I went back.
- And throughout answering the practical stuff, importantly what the trek was like and a couple of personal highlights.
I’ll start soon with a bit of background on why I chose to sign up for the trek and the initial day out to gauge fitness before thinking about proper training.
And after finishing all of that I’ll cover where it left me and also consider the impact of mountain tourism/guided trips.