Allalinhorn from the Mittel Allalin metro station, route visible behind me on right flank

Coming down from the Lagginhorn a couple of days earlier I was struggling, the attempt had hurt me physically (my toe nails were turning black, I can’t emphasise enough how important trimming nails right back is!) and mentally (I was worried how badly I’d been affected by altitude and also the fatigue I’d felt so soon in the trip). But after a chat with one of our guides over an ice cream, the chance to sit with a pint in the sun wearing soft shoes and a long sleep I felt better if not still sore as we set off on the bus to Saas Fee the next day. An hour spent rock climbing in big boots was unexpectedly a big turning point; it was great to just enjoy myself climbing leisurely in the morning sun. Laying eating lunch in the shade afterward, I was still suffering physical discomfort but mentally I felt refreshed and positive that whatever lay ahead I’d be able to give 100% to.

Climbing below Saas Fee in the morning sun, great fun!

We decided upon the longer more scenic route that saw us take the cable car to Pattjen (2567m) and then move steadily over a mixture of trail, rock and near the top snow and a dry glacier to the Brittania Hut at (3029m). The steady gradient and amazing views back over the valley to where we’d been for the first half of the week made the walk in enjoyable. There was a short section where holding onto cable and making use of the bolted on rocks was pretty much a necessity, which was quite obviously out of the comfort zone of some taking an afternoon stroll but apart from that it’s nice easy going. Plodding up the dry glacier to the hut my feet hurt but having loosened the laces at the front and tightening the laces more so than usual at the ankle I kept my swollen big toes well away from the front of the boot. On top of my feet feeling better, I’d really enjoyed the day and was eagerly looking forward to the ascent of the Allalinhorn.

Dry glacier beneath the Britannia hut, hut is on top of the snowy ridge to left of shot

After thinking it over on the approach I was ready to pass on the option of the Hohlaubgrat, despite how fantastic the route sounded, for the easier plod of the normal route up the WNW ridge. The easier route would get me back up to altitude with less potential damage done to my feet and also being shorter meant we could be slightly more leisurely, so reducing the chance of getting bad AMS as I had on the Lagginhorn. With just 500m of ascent to the summit thanks to us being able to catch the metro, it meant another hour and a half in bed, fantastic!

Looking East toward the Britannia hut

Hearing other groups wake up early, I’ll admit it was with a smile that I pulled the quilt up and went back to sleep, before waking up at 5:30am for breakfast and a start to an ascent that felt odd without the need for a headtorch. The walk over to the metro station was a simple 30min (notes said 45mins) brisk stroll with a few sections over rocky and slightly icy ground

Out of the metro station and onto the platform we looked up toward the Allalinhorn, with a piste of ever growing numbers of skiers (I guess you’d count them as an objective danger) infront of the route proper. Shortly after leaving the platform we stopped to put on crampons, noting that the slope would soon steepen and the flatter ground was obviously a better place to sort out (others didn’t think so far ahead…). Making our way over the piste and dodging lifts/skiers we were soon onto the trail. Passing quickly below some ice cliffs, we were at the one open crevasse on the route which required a big stride (even bigger for me at only 5’8!) to get over safely. After this the route returns to a snow plod, with some sections steeper than before but never much to really be considered hard work. After just over an hour we reached the ridge that joins the Allalinhorn and Alphubel, with absolutely stunning views South West toward the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc (one of those views that a photo just cannot do justice I’m afraid, well at least one I take). Turning left it’s a case of heading up the ridge a steady gradient, toward the top we crossed some slightly rocky ground underneath the summit before making our way around to the South and up to the short ridge that leads to the summit.

Final ridge line to the summit of the Allalinhorn

We quickly crossed the ridge to find a summit with just enough room to take a quick photo and shoot off before a couple of large groups joined the throng crowded around the marker on the rocky exposed top. Heading back down from the ridge to a spot where we could have some food/drink quickly I realised I was still smiling, that my breathing was normal and my head was clear, I’d cracked 4000m!

On the summit of the Allalinhorn

Looking from the summit toward the metro station, it’s in the middle on the ridge

Descent was short and mostly simple despite the need to keep stepping off trail as large numbers of people came up the same route, and after getting across the crevasse and dodging skiers we were back at the metro station to enjoy a soft drink before making our way back down into the valley.

After the two other ascents it was noticeable how easy the WNW ridge route of the Allalinhorn felt, it was about half the ascent and now much better acclimatised it felt like a nice morning walk. For those just wanting to get over 4000m in the Alps it’s a fairly obvious choice, although the crevasse and ice cliffs mean the route isn’t without dangers. I enjoyed the day but from talking to the other rope team it’s obvious that Hohlaubgrat makes for a much better ascent. Without doubt there are far more interesting and exciting routes in the vicinity but there’s plenty going for the WNW ridge for those wanting to pick up a simple 4000 or as part of acclimitisation for attempts on higher peaks. I had a fun morning out and had regained the focus I’d struggled with earlier in the trip, infact I now couldn’t wait to get over to Chamonix and check out Mont Blanc.